Saturday, January 30, 2010

Island Vacation | Pattaya Beach Thailand OAverview


A breakdown of Pattaya BeachIn terms of activity, the northern end is typically more sedate, while the central and southern parts are a little funkier and livelier, day or night. The southern part the hub of Pattaya's nightlife is the densely packed epicentre of all things brash, noisy and risqu. Beach Road is lined with sand and sea to one side, and bars, restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops to the other. Inland, parallel Second Road is full of noodle bars, crowded beer bars, souvenir shops, hotels and guest houses.

Island Vacation | Pattaya Beach Thailand OAverviewIsland Vacation | Pattaya Beach Thailand Overview
Over the past few years this area has undergone a major clean-up, with the water here now the clearest it's been in years. From here boats take visitors to offshore islands or on fishing or diving excursions, and a host of watersports are offered. The beautification process has been just as zealous onshore. While still the stage for a lot of wild nightlife, improving infrastructure, great transport facilities and a crackdown on crime have done wonders for the citys atmosphere.
One of the best ways to enjoy Pattaya is to get comfortable in a beach chair under the shade of an umbrella (all for hire), and wait for the food vendors to come around with freshly steamed shrimp or crispy, deep-fried crabs. Even better, spoil yourself with a traditional Thai massage right there on the beach. But then, the beauty of Pattaya is that it can be whatever you want it to be. Yes, life is sweet.

A Wealth of Watersports

A daytime stroll along the charming palm-lined promenade that borders the golden sandy beach to one side and Beach Road to the other, reveals abundant activity. As children build sandcastles at the feet of tiny waves, and locals enjoy shelter, snacks and socialising beneath umbrellas, thrill-seekers offshore partake in a host of available watersports. If you want to do the same, approach one of the many operators scattered along the beach (if they dont find you first!).

Island Vacation | Pattaya Beach Thailand OAverviewIsland Vacation | Pattaya Beach Thailand Overview

For a flat but fair fee, you can board a slippery banana boat, try your hand at wind surfing or jet skiing, or join the paragliders swaying gently in the blue horizon the choice is yours! Diving expeditions and tours to one of several offshore coral islands in the area often depart from here.


Deck chairs and Beach vendors

Those feeling inactive neednt fear. As easily as you can skid in jet skis across the water here, those looking to relax can hire a rubber ring and drift off, or enjoy the shade, comfort and views afforded by a deck chair and umbrella (20 baht a day). The latter are ubiquitous all along the shore line. Hungry or feel like shopping? Unwilling to leave behind your seat? Never fear an endless procession of tenacious but amiable vendors march up and down Pattaya beach all day long, their sole aim to deliver all you desire.

Island Vacation | Pattaya Beach Thailand OAverviewIsland Vacation | Pattaya Beach Thailand Overview

From the exotic to the mundane, this human conveyor belt ferries everything from ice creams, cold drinks and newspapers to jewelry, freshly roasted nuts and deep fried crabs. Should you want to pass, a polite mai ow krup (I dont want thanks) normally does the trick. Failing that, buy some sunglasses and pretend youre asleep.


Thai Massage and Beyond

A firm but ultimately satisfying Thai massage is also yours for the taking while on the beach. Get your feet and neck clicked, or that annoying back pain kneaded out while admiring the silhouette of far-off coral islands. For a fairly measly sum, your chosen masseuse will tend to you under your umbrella or nearby palm trees.

Island Vacation | Pattaya Beach Thailand OAverviewIsland Vacation | Pattaya Beach Thailand Overview

Alternatively, take a walk along the winding palm-fringed promenade a pleasant pursuit anytime of day, but best at sunset. If you get bored of the feel of glorious warm sand between your toes (and are a sucker for scorching tarmac) cross over to the pavement lined with endless hotels, shops, markets, beer bars and restaurants. Many of the bars here serve chilled beers at bargain prices well before midday, and are great spots to watch the many kinds of people who patronize Pattaya. A walk up any of the sois adjoining Beach Road leads you to Second Road, away from pursuits involving sun, sand and sea.


Friday, January 29, 2010

Island Vacation | Ko Phi Phi Island Thailand


Ko Phi Phi, or Phi Phi Island, is one of the most talked about places in Southeast Asia, with its natural beauty and reputation for good times putting it firmly on the tourist trail. The beauty of the island is unparalleled, even in a region of the world renowned for its stunning destinations. Limestone cliffs, turquoise waters, white sand beaches and miles of trackless forest make Phi Phi a perfect tropical island.
Island Vacation | Ko Phi Phi Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Phi Phi Island Thailand

Developments over the past 20 years however have made it the subject of great controversy. Those who wanted to preserve its natural character have been pitched against those who wanted to make it a world-class holiday destination, and profit financially from the trade. To understand the dispute, imagine what the island was like more than two decades ago when it was first 'discovered' by adventurous backpackers looking for Eden on earth. They found it on Ko Phi Phi Don -- a long, wide sand bar gracefully arching between two magnificent islands, creating two placid bays ideal for swimming, snorkelling and scuba diving, surrounded by cliffs waiting to be climbed and forests to be explored. Back then only a scattering of bungalows dotted the island, which was populated mostly by a community of sea-faring gypsies who call themselves the Chao Ko, or Island People. There was no pier and only one public boat each week made scheduled trips to the island.
Island Vacation | Ko Phi Phi Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Phi Phi Island Thailand

But the paradox in seeking out a hidden paradise is that it winds up on the map and others begin to seek it out, too -- in ever-increasing numbers. The once-idyllic Ton Sai beach became a port, clogged with boats and debris, with a pier to accommodate the large vessels needed to bring the growing number of visitors to shore. The sandy isthmus is almost unrecognisable now, blanketed with guesthouses, luxury hotels, bars, restaurants, tailors, internet cafes, travel agents, banks, CD shops, jewellery stalls and clothing markets. Tourists are hounded by Thais and resident foreigners alike touting diving trips, boats for hire, places to stay and bars to drink at. Those who remember what it once was, and what it could have been, find it impossible not to shed a tear when they see the place today. It exists, after all, on what is partially national park land. Thailand might have created a well-managed park with walking trails, rock-climbing, caving, unspoiled diving and snorkelling sites. From that perspective, it is a paradise lost.
Island Vacation | Ko Phi Phi Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Phi Phi Island Thailand

But the blame doesn't rest solely with foreign tourists. The Western world has been paving paradise and putting up parking lots for a long time before Thailand got into the game and can hardly take the moral high ground. Whatever one may wish had been done with Ko Phi Phi, the balance of forces in Thai government and society have developed the island as a well-developed and fairly affordable resort destination for holiday-makers from around the world

The checkered history of Ko Phi Phi took a tragic turn in 2004 when the Asian tsunami lashed its shores. In the wake of the devastation, the balance of power seemed to shift as plans were revived to assert government control of the island and restore its status as a national park, allowing only careful and controlled development. But local land owners saw this as a land grab by parties within the Thai government. The government's plans were thwarted and private industry rebuilt, reinvested, and expanded the island's infrastructure. And they did so in fairly short order, considering the enormity of the task and a complete lack of any government relief. Private development picked up where it left off before the tsunami and shows no intention of changing course.

On the bright side, the island has been cleaned up considerably from the festering sore it was a decade ago, when construction marred much of it and filth covered the beaches. Thanks to a growing awareness of green issues and the tsunami itself, today the sand and waters are fairly clean, there are no private cars or macadam roads, and no plans to introduce any. A few dozens saleangs -- motorcycles with side cars -- pick their way over sand and dirt roads, transporting passengers and their bags to their hotel when they first arrive, but they are mostly used for getting goods and equipment from here to there. Other than that, modes of transport are limited to push carts, bicycles and flip-flops. The bikes are becoming increasingly annoying on Phi Phi's narrow lanes, with many oblivious to pedestrians. Accidents are definitely waiting to happen.

As before the tsunami, Ton Sai village occupies a large chunk of the isthmus, acting as an open-air shopping mall. Along Ton Sai beach, half-a-dozen bars blast pop music out over the water, serve pricey drinks and provide fire shows into the wee hours of the night. Though on average it's more expensive than many other Thai islands, it's still remarkably cheaper than similar accommodation in other premier destinations around the world. Try finding a decent room in Hawaii or San Tropez for ten dollars a night.

Recently the beachside parties have been getting larger, with the noise pollution keeping those nearby awake until 3/4/5 am. This has become a serious issue for hut operations around the beach area on Ao Loh Dalam. The licensing laws governing alcohol sales simply do not apply to some bars and outfits -- those that are well connected, local advice suggests. Many travellers do end up changing accommodation or having miserable stays.

Despite the touts and the crowds, Ton Sai village remains just what many vacationers are looking for in a fun, memorable holiday. And in terms of the unspoilt tropical paradise the island once was, the good news for the keepers of the flame is that it has not died out completely. Ko Phi Phi Don's sister island, Ko Phi Phi Leh remains completely untouched, being only available for daytrips by boat -- though many now complain that the inundation by daytrippers spoils the place in an only slightly less regrettable way.
Island Vacation | Ko Phi Phi Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Phi Phi Island Thailand

But there's more: between Ton Sai and Laem Thong, at the northern tip of the island, are a half-dozen beaches, many accessible only by boat, offering an escape from the maddening crowds. There you'll find accommodation ranging from dirt cheap spots through to some of the most exquisite luxury spots in Thailand. And Chao Ko still live out on Laem Thong, running local shops alongside the fancy resorts, selling food and drink at local prices. Even within walking distance of Ton Sai village, inland towards the northern part of the isthmus, are a great variety of places to stay where you can easily forget all about the shopping mall's dubious attractions.

Modern Phi Phi can be summed up as a place with plenty of choice, a vibrant nightlife and an island which still retains its natural stunning beauty -- all at a price though. The crowds will bother some, the prices will make many cringe and the disappearance of the Thai smile may be upsetting, but overall Phi Phi remains a must-see destination.


Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Island Vacation | Chiang Mai Island Thailand


Thailand's northern capital, Chiang Mai is Thailand's second most-visited city, yet in terms of size it does not remotely compare to Bangkok. With its smaller size and population, Chiang Mai has a lot in its favour for tourists and travellers alike, with the centre of town packed with glittering wats, excellent restaurants and expansive shopping markets all of which are easily taken in on foot.

If Thai temples are your thing, then Chiang Mai has a lot to offer -- the hill-top Wat Doi Suthep is the crown jewels of a vivid collection of traditional Thai temples -- so popular in fact that one of Chiang Mai's most luxurious hotels (with some controversy) modelled itself on one.

Island Vacation | Chiang Mai Island Thailand

Island Vacation | Chiang Mai Island Thailand

Home to the prestigious Chiang Mai University, the city has quite a cosmopolitan feel to it with a lively entertainment scene and some of the best eating in northern Thailand -- this is not a town you'll go hungry in.
Island Vacation | Chiang Mai Island Thailand
Island Vacation | Chiang Mai Island Thailand

But most foreign holiday-makers find themselves in Chiang Mai not for the temples nor the food, nor even the entertainment scene, but rather for the hill-tribe trekking. For decades Chiang Mai has formed the trekking base of northern Thailand -- and while there are some excellent tour companies in the city, there remain a number of shoddy operators -- be sure to do your research before heading into the hinterland. Many travellers are now opting to commence their treks further afield in Mae Hong Son, Pai or Soppong (amongst others) where the tourist numbers are lower and the perceived experience more "authentic".

Our recommendations

Where to start? Do the trip up to Doi Suthep. Do the night market, which is touristy, but for a reason: There are some cracking deals to be had. Chiang Mai has hundreds of wats, but to the casual visitor for whom wat fatigue quickly sets in.

Island Vacation | Chiang Mai Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Chiang Mai Island Thailand


Chiang Mai has fabulous eating, but to see why, start your day at the fresh produce market (some of the cooking schools work this into their packages). There's also good nightlife -- you'll find the most farang orientated entertainment around the centre of town and along the Ping River. Locals tend more towards east Chang Mai (Nimmanhaemin Rd area) and to the north of town. Chiang Maians are a friendly lot -- if you want to check out the local scene, ask your guesthouse staff when they knock off and hit the town with them. Chiang Mai can be a lot of fun in the evening (and early morning).

Island Vacation | Chiang Mai Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Chiang Mai Island Thailand

Regarding trekking, if you've got the time, you'll almost certainly have a more "authentic" (whatever that means) experience trekking from a less central location such as Mae Hong Son, Pai, Chiang Rai or Nan. But if you're set on trekking from Chiang Mai, then do so for as many days as you can afford -- three days at a minimum we'd say.


Sunday, January 24, 2010

Island Vacation | Ko Ngai Island Thailand


The main beach on Ko Ngai is one of Trang's best -- a long sliver of white sand that looks out onto distant limestone karsts -- but as you might expect, it's also one of Trang's most developed beaches.

While tourism seems to have barely a toehold on other islands dotted off the scenic Trang coastline, it's fully entrenched on Ko Ngai, with barely a yard of beachfront left undeveloped.

The trend here is for full service upmarket spa resorts, and the budget options that were once the mainstay of Ko Ngai have been slowly squeezed out.

Island Vacation | Ko Ngai Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Ngai Island Thailand

For some, this smacks of the over development seen on Ko Phi Phi and Ko Samet. For others, it will be a welcome relief from the basic accommodation of the other islands.




Whatever your take, it's hard to deny the island's beauty. And you can take solace in the fact that most of the island is still left to nature -- evident in the pairs of noisy hornbills that occasionally swoop out over the beach.

Island Vacation | Ko Ngai Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Ngai Island Thailand

For some, this smacks of the over development seen on Ko Phi Phi and Ko Samet. For others, it will be a welcome relief from the basic accommodation of the other islands.

Island Vacation | Ko Ngai Island Thailand

Island Vacation | Ko Ngai Island Thailand

For some, this smacks of the over development seen on Ko Phi Phi and Ko Samet. For others, it will be a welcome relief from the basic accommodation of the other islands.


With comfort minded resorts, Ko Ngai is a good option for families. In addition to providing rooms with hot water showers and 24 hour electricity, the island's resorts will be glad to provide enough activities for the whole family.


Island Vacation | Ko Ngai Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Ngai Island Thailand

For some, this smacks of the over development seen on Ko Phi Phi and Ko Samet. For others, it will be a welcome relief from the basic accommodation of the other islands.

The snorkelling is very good and there are ample reefs within easy distance, and, as with the other islands in the area, most resorts will organise snorkelling trips out to sites further afield.


Friday, January 22, 2010

Island Vacation | Hua Hin Island Thailand


Hua Hin has developed at quite a pace in recent times. Once the preserve of well-to-do Thais and select few foreigners, recent years have seen a major boom in building, both resorts, apartments and houses. The skyline now has a multitude of high rise condominiums, hotels and resorts. However, Hua Hin is one of the oldest, if not the actual oldest, beach resort in Thailand. Still, just because Hua Hin is "Thailand's oldest beach resort" doesn't mean it's Thailand's best -- it's not. It is still popular with Bangkokians and Thailand's royal family, it has been a resort since the beginning of the twentieth century, today the town is popular with foreign retirees, tour groups and Bangkokians escaping the heat and dust of the Thai capital some 200km north of here.
Island Vacation | Hua Hin Island Thailand
Island Vacation | Hua Hin Island Thailand

Hua Hin first appeared on the tourist map in the 1920's with the opening of the Thai-Malaysia train line -- the line runs very close to the coastline here, with Hua Hin train station only a couple of hundred metres from the water's edge, and it isdefinitely one of Thailand's finest. The location's beach -- at that time a largely undeveloped stretch of almost white sand -- made for a perfect rest-stop during the long journey south, and once the Railway Hotel (now the Sofitel Central Hua Hin) was constructed, there was a perfect place to stay as well.

The 1920's also saw the Thai royal family take a fancy to Hua Hin with the construction of Wang Klai Klangwon (Far From Worries Palace) under King Rama VII's watchful eye. Unfortunately the palace didn't help keep the worries at bay, and King Rama VII was in residence at Wang Klai Klangwon in 1932 when a coup in Bangkok brought Thailand's absolute monarchy to an end. In the past the palace has been open to the public when royalty is not in residence, but Thailand's current King now lives there full time so, unless you're on first name terms with the King, chances are you'll not be seeing inside.

Island Vacation | Hua Hin Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Hua Hin Island Thailand

With a fishing village heritage, a fine hotel and a royal seal of approval, Hua Hin developed over the subsequent decades into a very popular destination, but today it's past its prime and has shifted gears -- developing now into more of a retirement destination than a tourist hot spot. Indeed Hua Hin, as with nearby Cha-Am and Pranburi sees rising popularity as a place for foreigners to buy real estate in the form of condominiums (which, unlike land and houses, can be purchased outright by foreign citizens, with certain conditions) rather than as a place to go on holiday to.

The heart of the town is wedged between the train station and the beach, with the Sofitel to the south and the large fishing pier to the north. Everything within this area is within walking distance. The most interesting part of Hua Hin are the old squid piers that now house a bunch of (admittedly very ramshackle) cheap guesthouses -- this is the heart of the old fishing village Hua Hin, but you only have to walk fifty metres from here to be surrounded by tourist restaurants, bars and shops.

On the topic of accommodation, while Hua Hin is a less popular stop among independent travellers and backpackers, there's nevertheless a fine array of inexpensive guesthouses and cheap hotels to choose from -- especially clustered around the Soi 67 area in the southern reaches of town. Most of the options in the centre of town are either mid-range family orientated hotels or more upmarket digs.
Island Vacation | Hua Hin Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Hua Hin Island Thailand



When you first arrive in town you will be amazed that so much fits into a relatively small space. There are all the trappings of modern commercial cities, all the major multinational franchises are represented in town. McDonalds, Burger King, Starbucks and any number of pizza joints and coffee houses all vie for space along the main drag in town. If you want modern western comforts, fast food and coffee then you will not be disappointed. Also, it would be remiss not to mention tailors at this point. Hua Hin is riddled with tailor shops. Seemingly every 10 metres there is another tailor shop house. We counted at least 20 tailors in town. This is an extraordinary high percentage of tailors for the space available. The associated touts and annoying sales tactics are one side of Hua Hin which may bother some (but obviously works on others due to the huge number in operation).

Hua Hin boasts all the amenities of a modern Thai town, there is a train station, a bus station and an airport (which only services private flights now). There is a large central Post Office, Police Station and regular local government facilities. There is also on Phetkasem Road, a Thai/foreigner help centre which is useful for anyone staying any length of time.

For a town of this size, Hua Hin has a ridiculous number of foreign eateries and bars and there's a growing number of rather seedy establishments that would be more at home in Pattaya or Patong, but regardless of that, if you've a hankering for cheap western food, you'll not starve. If trawling seedy joints is your thing, then the town has what you need, just bear in mind that with the seedy side of life there is certainly more risk. Thefts, druggings and skullduggery are definitely features of this side of life in Hua Hin (and the rest of the seedier resorts in Thailand). As for traditional Thai food, having fishing village roots generally translates into good seafood, but in Hua Hin's case you're better off heading south to Ao Takiap -- a ten minute drive away -- for very good -- and more reasonably priced fare.

Island Vacation | Hua Hin Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Hua Hin Island Thailand


The best stretch of Hua Hin's beach sits in front of the Sofitel and Central Hotels, but is densely packed with deckchairs and touts -- the hassle factor is substantial, so if being offered a massage, a beer and a pineapple every five minutes bothers you, head further down the beach -- the further you go, the quieter it gets. Better still, hire a motorbike and head further afield -- the beaches in the surrounds are good and far less busy than the main strip at Hua Hin proper.

Hua Hin also serves as a good base for visiting the nearby Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park and Kaeng Krachan National Park (though the latter is more conveniently visited from Phetburi). Organised tours are available throughout town, or if you've your own transport, they're straightforward to reach.


Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Island Vacation | Ko Mun Nork Island Thailand


The blip of an island of Ko Mun Nork rarely finds itself on the itinerary of roving backpackers and travellers -- partly due to the cost of the resort, but also because it can only be visited as a part of an organised trip.

Ask many Bangkok residents though and you'll quickly hear some of the rave reviews Ko Mun Nork receives -- both as a romantic weekend getaway, but also for the occasional parties thrown on the island -- parties which are very much invite only.
Island Vacation | Ko Mun Nork Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Mun Nork Island Thailand

Private label raves and romantic weddings aside, Ko Mun Nork is certainly worth consideration -- particularly on weekdays when you could well have the entire island to yourself.

There's just the single place to stay -- the imaginatively named Ko Mun Nok Resort. Unfortunately the digs are not quite up to the standard of the island, and, as neither is the food, this is a place you come to for the beach and the beach alone.
Island Vacation | Ko Mun Nork Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Mun Nork Island Thailand

As far as pastimes go, there's the beach, the water and the salas -- that's about it! Yoga enthusiasts will be more than satisfied with some of the platforms dotted about, and there's apparently some ok snorkelling -- we never managed to leave our sala.

Island Vacation | Ko Mun Nork Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Mun Nork Island Thailand

It's odd really that the rooms are so average, as it is obvious that a lot of thought has gone into the beach salas and private wooden piers that jut out towards the water. Perhaps they exhausted all their creative juices before they got to the rooms -- and certainly before they got to the menu!
Island Vacation | Ko Mun Nork Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Mun Nork Island Thailand

That said, come here knowing the digs are not fab, pack some slabs of cheese, a few bottles of wine and a book or three and you've got all the makings of a sleepy weekend away.


Saturday, January 16, 2010

Island Vacation | Ko Adang Island Thailand


Located 43 km west of Tarutao and 80 km from Pak Bara is Ko Adang, an island about 30 sq. km in size that is covered with forests and freshwater streams. An island supplied with fresh water year round, its strongest attraction is the green sea turtles that come ashore between September and December to lay their eggs.

Island Vacation | Ko Adang Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Adang Island Thailand

Not to be missed places include an interesting hike along the east coast, which will lead to a pretty beach 2 km from the park station. Slightly further from this beach is a waterfall that was once used as a source for fresh water by passing pirate ships. Another waterfall is located at the west coast, 3 km from Laern Son (Pine Cape) where the chao nĂ¡am village of Talo Puya is found nearby. Laern Son, which is on the southern tip of the island, also offers a thatched longhouse for visitors who wish to stay overnight. Alternatively, one can always camp under the stars!
Food, however, may pose a problem as the restaurant is considered expensive in comparison to the low quality of food served. It is better to bring your own foodstuff before setting off for this island.
Island Vacation | Ko Adang Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Adang Island Thailand

Whether a day-trip from Lipe or an overnight, Ko Adang is ideal for travellers who seek a less-populated haven from beaches packed with sunbathing limbs in peak season. There are plenty of hiking trails, deserted white sand beaches, and waterfalls -- all accessible either on foot or by longtail.
Island Vacation | Ko Adang Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Adang Island Thailand

Passengers are dropped off on the beach and can walk up to Adang's Information Centre. The park rangers speak varying levels of English and can provide accommodation and activity information. There's an information panel that describes some of the varied colourful coral around Ko Adang: Some look like flower, mountain, deer or cabbages. Snorkellers and divers with lesser imaginations still rave about the coral formations around Adang which have been reasonably well protected. Although one traveller recently noticed a group of youngsters trampling coral as they learned to swim. Snorkels can be rented for 50B, but keep an eye out for spiky sea urchins!

Island Vacation | Ko Adang Island ThailandIsland Vacation | Ko Adang Island Thailand

There are two waterfalls on Adang. Ratana waterfall is best reached by longtail boat -- the going rate at time of writing was 200B/person for the round trip. Toward the end of the dry season, from February to April, Ratana slows to a trickle, but Pirate's Falls, easily reached by a 2km walkway, is worth visiting any time of year. There's also a viewpoint which is an easy 6km hike across Adang. Longtails can be hired to sights on Adang and nearby small islands in Tarutao National Marine Park. Prices range from 1,500-2,500B per boat, so it's best arranged with a group.

It's easy to hire a longtail to Adang from Lipe. Drivers on Pattaya beach may start out at outrageous prices, but those on Sunset beach tend to charge the going rate of 50 - 100B/person (depending on group size). Ask the management at Porn Beach Resort for assistance in hiring a boat if there are no drivers waiting there.

The island has one restaurant that is open from 7:00 - 21:00. Food and drinks are cheaper than on Ko Lipe, but the menu is limited to simple Thai dishes and Western breakfasts. The restaurant also sells toiletries and pre-packaged snacks.


Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Island Vacation | Phuket Travel Thailand Guide


Thailand's largest island is its best example of the benefits and problems of tourism. Huge promotions of Phuket by the TAT and travel agents since Thailand first start attracting international travellers on a large scale in the 1980s have brought in millions of tourists and billions of baht -- the province is visited by over a third of all international visitors to Thailand in any given year. But along with them has come unregulated development, severe environmental degradation, organised crime and a raft of other ugly annoyances.

The Pearl of the South has quickly lost a good deal of its lustre in the past few decades. As property prices soared, many locals sold up to national and international hotels and many of the most beautiful beaches are now host to scores of them, along with over-priced restaurants, bars, travel agents, massage parlours and the rest of the usual suspects.

Thailand IslandsPhuket Travel Thailand Guide

For many though, the very developed and westernised beaches that run down the western coast of Phuket are exactly what they are looking for. With over a dozen beaches and bays to choose from -- including Patong Beach, Kata Beach, Karon Beach, Kamala Beach and Surin Beach -- you can opt for tourist and deck chair madness one day and follow it with a hidden-away bay the next.

For the budget traveller, the days of grass huts on the beach are largely gone and simple seafood feasts have been all-but replaced by KFC, Starbucks and Pizza Hut. Phuket is an expensive place, with lodging, eating and transport all far costlier than elsewhere in Thailand. You can minimise this by eating on the street and drinking less (or diligently chasing happy hours) but if you really want to spend some time here, you'll need to adjust your budget.

Thailand IslandsPhuket Travel Thailand Guide

Dishes of pad thai for 100B are not unusual, in some areas and you can't avoid the disgraceful public transport here, where the spineless authorities refuse to crackdown on the tuk tuk mafia, meaning public buses only run between Phuket Town and the beaches, but not between beaches. This makes inter-beach travel very expensive and a good reason to hire a motorbike or car.
Thailand IslandsPhuket Travel Thailand Guide

Phuket was hit by the Boxing Day Tsunami, with Kamala, Patong, Bang Tao and Ya Nui the worst hit. A mini-series about the tsunami was filmed by a British/American co-production here and in Khao Lak in the summer of 2006 -- it's telling that many Thais were upset by the filming and thought it was 'too soon,' even more than two years after the fact.

Thailand IslandsPhuket Travel Thailand Guide

Phuket is also a rapidly-growing real estate market for those looking at retiring or at least buying a holiday home. Massive upscale development is going in all over the island and the prices are not cheap. With an international airport, top standard medical care (Phuket is the sex-change capital of Thailand) and all the western creature comforts, it is easy to see why for some, Phuket is indeed their very own Pearl of the South.


Monday, January 4, 2010

Islands Vacation | Coral Island and Raya Island Thailand


Off Phuket's southern coast are a number of small islands whose pristine shores lure scuba-divers and beach bums away from the mainland. Most of these isolated islands are undeveloped, but the notable exceptions are Coral Island and Raya Island (also known as Racha Island) which have accommodation options and restaurants.

Both islands have safe swimming, reefs teeming with aquatic life, and a sense of 'getting away from it all' that's harder and harder to come by in Phuket proper. Coral Island is privately owned by the Coral Island Resort -- the only place to stay on the island. Raya Island is larger and, while still largely undeveloped, is home to three established resorts and some nameless bungalow operations open only during the high season.

Thailand IslandCoral Island and Raya Island Thailand

Coral Island

Only a 15 minute speed boat trip from Chalong pier, Coral Island is the more commercial of the two islands. During the day, it plays host to a steady stream of day-tripppers who come to enjoy the island's long white sandy beach and excellent year-round swimming. The snorkelling is pretty good and you don't have to go out very far before you start to see colourful reef fish, making this an excellent beach for kids to learn how to snorkel.

Thailand IslandCoral Island and Raya Island Thailand

Other beach activities like diving, banana boat rides, and para-sailing are available (for an extra fee, of course). A host of souvenir shops, restaurants, and services operate along the beach. If you're aching for an oil massage, in need of a cold drink, or forgot your swimmers, all can be purchased on the island.

Raya Island

Raya Island is a prime destination for yachties, who stay at the resorts, and divers, who typically book up all the island's cheaper rooms. Between the yachts, diving boats, and speedboats with snorkelling day-trippers, Raya's beautiful bays can get quite congested during the high season. Thankfully, this doesn't really detract from the natural beauty of the place. It's always possible to find a secluded spot and bask in the feeling of being miles away from everything -- which you really are.

Ko Raya's beaches and bays are connected by dirt roads in a state of perpetual bumpiness due to run-off during the rainy season. It is possible to rent a 100cc motorbike, but you're better off walking. A common sight is a cart loaded with divers and their gear being towed to the beach by a tractor or ATV.
Thailand IslandCoral Island and Raya Island Thailand

Activities on the island include snorkelling, mountain biking, and nature hikes. The resorts offer lots of organised activities like fishing trips and horse-back riding, but these will put a big dent in your wallet. Be prepared to exercise your credit card, or simply come with a mellow attitude, a good book and relax.

A small, predominantly Muslim, population of farmers and fishermen live on Raya Island, and there's even a small mosque. None of the island's restaurants serve pork and, in case you were planning to, visitors are asked not to bring any with them.

All of the resorts on Raya Island have an adjoining restaurant or two, plus there's the Phad Thai restaurant opposite Raya Father. Be aware that meals don't come cheap -- expect to pay at least double what you would at a similar place on Phuket proper. Convenience stores on the main beach near the Racha sell toiletries and snacks like cookies and chips but, again, prices are steep. If you're planning to stay a while, consider stocking up on snacks at the 7-eleven near the Chalong Pier before getting on the boat.

Thailand IslandCoral Island and Raya Island Thailand

There really isn't any nightlife on Raya, but if you're looking for a watering hole other than the resort bar seek out the Coco Bar at Lah Bay. Run by a local, this simple place has an interesting Thai/country-western vibe (think buffalo skulls on the wall and The Eagles on the stereo). They can cook too, but you'll need to drop by during the day to pre-order if you hope to have some snacks with your beers. To get here, walk toward the floating pier and then follow the signs.


 

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